Taipei 101

Now that I am more or less settled, most of the past week was spent going on mini-adventures, the first of which was rafting. We headed out to the Yilan (I-lan) region by bus. After about an hour (much of which was spent in tunnels) we arrived in the city of Luodong and then took a private van out to the rafting area.

Luodong bus stop, Yilan

Before we knew it we were suiting up (webbed water boots, sunblock, life vests with a million straps, and foam helmets a la Dodgeball). Sadly I have no pictures of this- although it would just be embarrassing for everyone involved. What is more unfortunate is that I have no photos of…water! It’s for the best that I didn’t ruin my camera, I suppose. Instead I will have to do my best to paint an accurate picture…

We were divided into two rafts, with 2-3 guides accompanying each. Our preparation consisted of one of the guides explaining things in Mandarin & Taiwanese for about 5 minutes, and then getting the two sentence “translation” from a friend which basically consisted of, “if it starts too get choppy, stop paddling and duck.” While I was quite comforted for their evident concern for our safety, I couldn’t help but wonder what kind of dangers were in store.

Saying goodbye to some of our raft guides.

View of the countryside from rafting base camp.

As it turns out, the “guides” only guided when it was absolutely necessary, and the rest of the time they were goofing off. What a job it must be to come to work every day and harass unsuspecting tourists by splashing them, pouring water down their backs, and dumping them in the river! They were all very friendly and just wanted us to have a good time. They actually directed us to climb up an inclined plane of rushing water, then slide down it like a water slide. They also drug us by our life vests into a whirlpool at the foot of a short dam which kept us afloat and stationary, despite the all the water rushing past us. Numerous times they chose me as their first victim, literally pushing me into the water or throwing me up in the air.
They also arranged us on the rafts so that we would be able to safely cross a couple of 3-5 foot drops by boat. By the end our shoes were full of pebbles and all our digits pruney. As we got cleaned up and said goodbye to the guides the sun was already starting to disappear. (Even though the weather’s still like summer, sunset is at 6pm due to the proximity to the equator!)

The Luodong night market was delicious, to say the very least. There seemed to be a lot more appetizing options that in many a Taipei market (while fowl and pig innards and blood were still present, there was also a wide variety of fried pork, chicken, and veggies, along with the traditional night market fare).

unidentified animal innards

japanese style fried octopus balls with mayo and wasabi

a variety of things on sticks ready for grilling

oyster omelet with pineapple-watermelon juice

shaved ice with green beans, taro, and passion fruit

Not only was the food excellent, but prices for everything tended to be a bit lower than Taipei, and the streets were less crowded. Overall, the trip was a breath of fresh air- a good way to stay afloat and maintain one’s sanity when living amidst the hustle and bustle of Taipei.

.

As I tap my toe to ‘California Dreaming” from the back of a 12 seat van, I am contemplating the sheer oddity of the idea that I drifted to sleep over the twinkling expanse of LA city lights, and as if in a dream, raced the sun over the horizon towards the international date line in our journey over the Pacific.

I awoke as we drifted over Japan and conversed with my new airplane buddy, Sue, who though a native Taiwanese, had studied, to my surprise at Indiana University- Bloomington! Once we realized the strange coincidence we became quick friends. Not only did she help me on my way out of the airport, but she also invited me to come visit her some time in the South of Taiwan. The two of us parted ways when I found my ride, the driver holding a sign with my name and wearing a big grin. Although it was clear he could not speak English, he was very eager to help me with luggage and wisp me off to the hostel. As we stepped outside the refreshing air-conditioning of the airport, we shared a laugh as both our glasses fogged up in the steamy Taipei air.
Time: 7am Temp: 80 degrees F Humidity: 1,000,000,000%
I rolled up my pants while waiting for him to bring the car around.

The vibrant leafy green medians brightened up the highway, full of the eerily rhythmic pace of early morning traffic- not to worry, I was reassured moments later that by no means did all traffic move like clock-work. Passing under a giant spaghetti bowl of concrete, the mountains began to take shape in the distance, framing the densely packed apartment buildings along the horizon in a bright white sfumato. As I turned my attention to the inside of the van, I chuckled to myself: a mix CD of Mariah Carey, 80s soft rock, and other assorted American classics; dashboard charms: a stuffed puppy, a stuffed cow, and a very serious-looking Buddha. I would soon find out that this comical randomness is indicative of life in Taipei.

The final notes of “What a Wonderful World” fade away and the seemingly peaceful harmony between mountains and buildings vanishes instantaneously and morphs into the organized chaos of the morning commute. Pedestrians march through crosswalks, cars wait impatiently at timed stoplights, watching the digital countdown, and mo-ped drivers, as if by ESP, don ponchos just in time for the light drizzle of an approaching typhoon. Gradually the shops begin to look familiar, and before I know it, I’ve arrived safely at the hostel.

After a victorious battle with my luggage (with which I had help) I finally set eyes on the infamous “mini-single” room which I was promised. For $12USD/night I have a bed, a fan, a mirror, and well, that’s just about it. Most of my luggage gets exiled to the common room, while I figure out how to arrange the necessities in the 4ft x 6ft space. Finally, I can email home, shower, and with some luck, find a working ATM.

As much as I was hoping to avoid other 外國人 (foreigners-aka non-Taiwanese) I have to admit that it is strange to arrive in another country without the claustrophobic surveillance of a school program. Having no other white people to stand out with, no schedule, and no apartment does make one feel unsettled in even an otherwise familiar place. Strangers say “Hello!” in passing, some staring briefly, and I realize I’ve forgotten what it was like to be the 老外 (old foreigner). That being said, I was glad to see a familiar face, when Drew walked right past the only Caucasian waiting outside Exit 4 of Shilin metro…once I got his attention, we stopped by one of his favorite snack shops for DELICIOUS iced green milk tea with honey and a flaky pancake stuffed with Taiwanese kimchi and cheese. We stopped by his apartment for a bit, then headed out for a night of stuffing our faces at Shilin Night Market (which my stomach was not quite ready for). After a couple of shaved ice deserts, spicy cold noodles, pork skewers stuffed with green onions, glazed sweet potatoes, and various fruit juices, I realized I’ve got a lot of work cut out for me. Not only do I intend to EAT it all, but I said I would take photos and put it up on the photo blog! I’ve already devoured some of the best looking dishes before I remembered to take a photo. I guess that will give me something to do for 10 months.